3D printing is an additive type of manufacturing process. It involves adding a new layer of material over the previous layer to make the final part. This is very different from the traditional subtractive manufacturing process of starting with a block of material and then carving/machining away bits of that material to get the end product.
3D printing also has different processes for manufacturing such as SLA, FDM, SLS, and so on. While there are subtle variations in the best practices for each type of 3D printing process, certain guidelines are applicable to and common across all 3D printing processes.
The following are some key considerations which you are encouraged to take into account in order during the design phase so as to get the best quality of print at the end:
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Digital Freedom vs Physical Realities
Every 3D part is first designed in a 3D modeling software. This software is digital and in the digital world, you can design pretty much anything. While it is great to be able to achieve complex designs in the digital software that may, at times, defy the laws of physics and gravity, the real world is very different from the digital world.
Logiciel montage video macbook. Ultimately, the part you design will get printed and it has to be in sync with the physical world limitations. So, always keep in mind that just because a design is achievable in a software program, that does not necessarily mean that it will all work out in the physical world. Download itunes for macbook pro. Think of gravity and physics too.
Orientation
The orientation of your model impacts the end result in a highly significant way. If you get the orientation wrong, then you risk making the 3D printing process more complicated, expensive, and time-consuming. Hence, orientation is something you need to consider when you design your model in the software.
You need to orient your model in a way which minimizes or removes the need for the use of supports. The orientation should also be such that you can print overhangs that are at a smaller angle than 90 degrees. An even better option is to orient your model in a way such that the overhangs are actually vertical and pointing up towards the ceiling with a flat surface below them.
If any sections of your model have high levels of detail, then you could consider having those sections along the Z-axis which is a much finer resolution than the X and Y axes. While thinking about orientation, think about what 3D printer you will use and what its strengths are. Orient your model accordingly to align with the functionality of the printer to get a part that is accurate and strong.
Single piece vs splits
Sometimes, it may be better to split a single large part into multiple pieces that are smaller and simpler. It may be more time and cost efficient to print these smaller individual portions and then fit everything together at the end. Often times, a single large part is more complicated, tends to require more support, overhangs, post-processing, and more steps to print.
Take for example any rotating part like an impeller or a wheel assembly. Such parts consist of an axle and a circular section. Printing the whole thing at once will be quite complicated. But splitting such a design into two smaller designs is a better option. You can print the axle and then the circular portion. You won't require any supports and overhangs either.
If your 3D printer can accommodate two models at once, then you may be able to print both the axle and the circular portion simultaneously. So, you get the same part as the larger complex one in the same amount of time as if you were to print the larger part as one piece. However, the amount of complexity and post-processing required goes down significantly (or even completely in many cases).
https://asriefoldabb1977.wixsite.com/downloadingcompany/post/apple-mac-screenshot-command. Always think about the complexity when you begin designing and whether it is worth splitting the part design into smaller more manageable sections.
Keep an eye on tolerances
When you print multiple components of a larger part or assembly, then it is absolutely critical that every single component fits with its counterpart after all the printing has been done. After all, if the parts don't fit, then the assembly isn't of much use. And to make matters even trickier, you don't find out about the issue of non-fitting parts until after the printing process. To then go back and try to fix such problems can cost money and take up valuable time by means of significant post-processing.
So, when you design individual components of a larger assembly, keep the tolerance levels in mind. After all, tolerance mismatches can ever so slightly throw off the sizes which can cause the problems outlined above. There are two main types of fitting mechanisms most commonly used. The first is a slide fit and the second is a press fit. Press fit requires high levels of tolerance, with a recommended reference level of 0.2mm. Slide fit is relatively more flexible, with a recommended reference level of 0.4mm.
Certain parts like gears will demand much higher tolerance levels. The 3D printer itself will have slight inaccuracies that should be factored in when designing a part.
Wall Thickness
Wall thickness needs to be given special attention. Every 3D printer will have a minimum wall thickness but it is a good idea to design your 3D parts such that the minimum wall thickness across any section is at least 1 mm. https://8nistturcel-te9f.wixsite.com/writesoft/post/caesars-slots-free-coins-cheats. If you are designing vertical wires, then the length to width ratio should be kept to a minimum. The smaller this ratio, the better will be the quality of the printed part.
Overhangs
Overhangs are sections that stick out and hang with only partial support or often times absolutely no support below them. They essentially are keeping themselves up against gravity. Since 3D printing is an additive 'layer-by-layer' process, it is not possible to print something like an overhang in thin air. Generally, every layer that a 3D printer prints rests on some underlying material. So, 3D printing overhangs can get quite complicated.
One recommendation, therefore, is to minimize or completely avoid overhangs if possible. That way, you do not have to worry about them or their effects on the quality of the model and the finish. If you cannot escape the use of an overhang, then you will have to use a support below the overhang. While this solution may sound quite simple, the problem with using supports is that removing the support after printing can take a lot of time and leave rough marks on the surface of the model.
You can also try to design the model in such a way that the surface goes gradually beyond the corner rather than in a perfect right angle. You can also try and print the edge surface at an angle. Most 3D printers allow up to 45 degrees of angle when printing.
Chamfers and Fillets
Thin parts, when 3D printed, tend to be weak and brittle. In fact, they could break even during the actual printing of the part. So, when you design such sections, make sure you add fillets at the base of such thin sections. Fillets are curves that are designed at the interface or connection point of two straight surfaces. These fillets will strengthen the base portion and add durability to the part.
You can also think of designing chamfers along the edges of a cube or a straight surface. Chamfers remove the need for having right angles which increase the risk of warping and other imperfections. The stress on the model during the printing process is also reduced through the use of chamfers.
Holes
When making holes in your parts, note that the 3D printer does not print your designed hole in a circular shape. Rather, the circle of your hole is shaped as a polygon. The vertices of this polygon touch the circumference of your designed hole's circle. So, the diameter of this 3D printed hole will not be exactly as big as you may desire.
The solution to this problem is to design your hole with a diameter slightly larger than what you calculated. You are advised to take into account a buffer of 0.2mm and then add some more for tolerance level of the 3D printer.
Use Dowels if using Pegs
3D printed parts which have holes and pegs and which need to be fitted together by slide fitting or push fitting can sometimes break. The reason for snapping is the fact that there is high pressure exerted on the peg or the area which interfaces with another part.
To avoid this, the natural reaction would be to somehow reinforce the peg or the area which will come into contact with the other part being fitted. Reinforcing is done by using more material or adding extra layers of material. But, you can avoid the extra material cost and time by using dowels. Compensate for the higher pressure and increase the strength of the interfacing portion of your 3D printed part by using a dowel.
Detailing
Detailing looks great on the end product. But, when you design the detailing on your part, keep in mind the capability of the 3D printer that you plan to use. Each printer has a minimum feature size that it can print. You also need to think about the layer height that the printer can give you. If your printer cannot handle the kind of intricacy that you want, then design a part with a lower level of intricacy and detailing.
This advice goes back the first point of this article i.e. the digital world and the real world have to be in sync with each other.
Embossing and Engraving
Embossing is a process where certain specific portions of a surface are slightly raised to display logos or letters on the surface. Engraving is the incision of a design, pattern, logo, or letter into a flat surface by cutting into the surface. 3D printers perform both embossing and engraving, but up to a certain limit.
Various 3D printing processes have different limitations on performing embossing and engraving. For an SLA printer, the minimum embossing requirement level is 0.1 mm. For the FFF process, it is much higher at 0.5 mm. Similarly, for engraving, SLA printer will require 0.4 mm while an FFF printer will require 0.5 mm. This has to be factored in when designing the embossing and engraving over the surface of the part being created.
So, no matter what software you use or what kind of part you create, you must always keep in mind the above guidelines when designing. Following them will save you a significant amount of cost and time. The key is to know your 3D printer and its specifications so that you know its minimum and maximum levels of details and other parameters. Design for the application and also for the printing process that you plan to use. And always design with practical limitations in mind.
Despite the fact that 3D printing is one of the most versatile additive manufacturing technologies available today, it still has several limitations. Yes, you can create just about anything on a 3D printer – given that it fits on a build platform and that your 3D printer can handle your filament material.
The good news is that there are a couple of ways that you can work around these limitations. Among experienced users of 3D printers, a favorite practice is to break down a model into separate interlocking parts. What's the point of going through this complexity? Are there any best practices to ensure that your interlocking parts fit securely and snugly?
Why make a design with interlocking parts?
To be honest, breaking down your model into separate, smaller parts and designing interlocking joints for each of them does make your design a bit more complex. It also takes longer to print and uses up more filament. Home studio software. What's the point of going through this compromise, anyway?
1. Print large objects
The most common reason for why 3D printing professionals break down their models into interconnected parts is if they intend to print a design that is way too big to be printed all at once. While it's also possible to simply slice your models into smaller pieces and glue them back together once you're finished printing, having interlocking parts gives your multi-part assembly a much higher level of durability.
2. Print with minimal supports
Support structures are par for the course when it comes to 3D printing, but there's no doubt that they are a huge waste of filament. If this isn't an issue, then you can go right on ahead and print your model as is. However, there might be a way for you to minimize the amount of filament that goes into support structures by splitting the model into smaller parts.
3. Make prints with several materials or colors
Some high-end printers come with a dual extruder system, allowing you to print objects made with two different filaments. If this is a luxury you don't have, then it's perfectly fine to split your model into different parts so that you can use different filament materials. The beauty of this method is that there's no restriction to the number of different filaments that you can use – you can go crazy and use ten different filaments!
Once you get into the mindset that it's always possible to split the model you're working with into different parts, you can open up a whole world of options for your 3D printing project. The upgrade in design freedom is amazing, and you'll never go back to that single-piece mindset.
Types of interlocking connections
The tough part of modifying models to have interlocking parts is that there's no one-button function in 3D design software for it. Instead, you'll have to pick a point where you want to split your model and add in the necessary modifications yourself. However, it's not all that hard. With a little practice, you will be able to add interlocking connections on your models in a few minutes.
Zuma computer game. The following are some of the most commonly used methods to create an interlocking connection. The best method may vary according to the geometry of your model or the intended use of your 3D printed object.
1. Pin and cavity
The simplest interlocking connection, this method simply creates a thin cylinder on one half of the connection, and a similarly-sized cavity on the other. The specifics of the process may vary between different software platforms, but the basic principle is the same: make a split in your design, add a cylinder to one half, add a Boolean modifier to the same cylinder and apply it to the other half.
When doing this method to create interlocking joints, always keep in mind to respect the tolerance of your printer. We'll get into more detail on this later, but the tolerance is basically a measure of how accurate the objects coming out of your 3D printer will be with respect to the measurements you've set on the slicer software. What this means is that you cannot expect a round peg to fit perfectly into a round hole of exactly the same size. Instead, you'll need to expand the hole just enough to make the peg fit snugly.
It's also worth noting that using a cylindrical connector allows the adjoining parts to rotate around the joint. Depending on your design, this may or may not be a desirable feature. If you'd like the parts of your model to be rigid once they are joined together, then you may build a connection using a square peg.
Another thing you'll notice about a pin and cavity connection is that the parts are easy to separate as they are to join. If you want a connection that is more permanent, you will have to apply an adhesive to the overlapping connection. However, if you want a connection that stays put without being permanent, then a snap-fit connection may be what you are looking for.
2. Dovetail
A dovetail connection is a type of interlocking connection that is very stable yet easily removable. Taking its name from the shape of the connectors, a dovetail connection is similar to what you would find in jigsaw puzzles. They aren't exactly the most versatile since they are best used on flat and thin objects.
A dovetail connection provides a lot of contact between the two parts that it is joining. The resulting increase in friction makes dovetail connections very hard to break. In fact, dovetail connections are virtually impossible to separate by tension forces. The increased contact area is also great for applying adhesives.
3. Cantilever snap-fits
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Snap-fit connections are nothing new. In fact, you probably encounter them several times a day. As its name implies, a snap-fit connection contains a part that 'snaps' into place to create a firm but temporary connection. Since they are virtually everywhere, assembly and disassembly of snap-fit joints have become intuitive for most people.
The most common snap-fit joint is the cantilever – a narrow beam with a protrusion at the end, such as a hook or a bead. The protruding end is inserted into a cut-out slot on the other half of the connection. Quick hit slots best online casino. Once the protrusion has been fully inserted, it snaps back into place and locks the two halves of the connection in place.
A bit more thought is needed when designing a cantilever snap-fit joint. The parts connecting a snap-fit joint go through an exceptional amount of stress during insertion, so they must be designed with durability and even stress distribution in mind. The worst that could happen is that your cantilever joints can snap off because of the excessive stress. There are a couple of best practices that can be done to achieve this.
A good piece of advice is to build snap-fit joints horizontally. As you may well know, FDM printing is anisotropic in nature. This means that the points and the axis at which the layers bond with each other are much weaker compared to any other direction. By building your joints horizontally, the weak points of the joints are spared from the highest levels of stress during insertion.
Another easy remedy is to 'fillet' the base of the cantilever, or to give it a smooth and curved base. You can play around with the radius of the fillet, but whichever settings you pick should still result in better stress distribution.
4. Annular snap-fits
Annular snap-fits are basically snap-fits with a circular cantilever. A common example are the caps of pens. Annular snap-fits do not need a narrow beam and are therefore less prone to mechanical damage. As you can tell with the usual pens, this type of snap-fit connection does not easily get worn out even with long-term and frequent assembly and disassembly.
Aside from the superior mechanical strength of annular snap-fits, they can also be designed to fit so snug that they effectively become water-tight. Most of the same design principles that are recommended for cantilever snap-fits also apply to annular snap-fits, such as having fillets and setting a build direction that reduces stress along the weak points. Snap-fits are best made using a filament material that is both strong and flexible, such as nylon.
How to determine the tolerance of your 3D printer
We've already mentioned the concept of 'tolerance' above, which determines how well interlocking parts will fit into each other. Common sense dictates that the cavity of any interlocking connection must be slightly bigger than the solid 'plug.' The question is: by how much?
Different sources recommend different values for the tolerance of an FDM printer. Some might say that 0.5 millimeter is a good rule of thumb, while some claim to be able to go as allow as 0.2 millimeter for snap-fit joints. With these conflicting claims, which one should you follow?
Our advice – none of them. The tolerance of your printer depends a lot on your printer's unique calibration settings. Different filament materials may also react differently during cooling, resulting in different tolerance values.
For best results, we recommend determining the tolerance values for your specific printer and filament combination by printing a simple tolerance test model such as this one from Thingiverse. The model is basically a series of buttons with different gaps (from 0 to 0.9 millimeters), and you'll just have to check which clearance value provides a fit that is just snug enough.
Final thoughts
Modifying models to have interlocking parts is something that only more advanced 3D printing professionals would resort to. It's a great little way of spicing up an old model, scaling them up and breaking them down into more manageable pieces. It also paves the way for the possibility of building a model out of different filament materials and colors
If this something you haven't tried yet, we certainly recommend giving it a shot, even if just for fun. Designing interlocking parts and testing out how well they fit each other provides a lot of insight into how accurate (or inaccurate) your printer is. More complicated interlocking connections, such as snap-fits, also take a lot of practice to perfect. Why don't you get those mistakes in now so that you'll perfect the craft in the future?
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